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- Difficulty
- 5b+ (5b+)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 10 P / 332 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- NE / Gneiss
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- Altitude start
- 2468 m
Demanding, yet enjoyable climbing on great rock. This long ascent, with alpine ambience and many pitches, along with its descent, is an oft underrated, challenging day trip. Certainly the most frequented route in this area.
Route description
Northeast Ridge.
For route description, see Topo.
Descent from the northeast ridge via Nanouk.
Descent from the northern pinnacle (about 2800m), where many routes end up, is usually by abseil: The best route to abseil is"Nanouk" (Route No. 25): 50m / 50m / 50m / 35m / 25m.
Additional information
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Protection
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Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
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Rope
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2x50m
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Quick draws
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12
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Stoppers
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✔
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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+++
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Abseiling possible
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✔
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Foot Descent
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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Good crack climbing skills required! Without these, the rating of 5b + is regularly perceived as hard.
- Rock Type / Quality
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Alpine climbing on mostly good gneiss. Cracks, slabs and ridge sections. Some brittle passages, especially in the vicinity of the rock fall of 2009, but manageable.
- Protection / Material
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Take large Friends if you want extra security.
- Descent
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Descent from the northern pinnacle (about 2800m), where many routes end up, is usually by abseil:
The best route to abseil is"Nanouk" (Route No. 25): 50m / 50m / 50m / 35m / 25m.
- History
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Ruedi and Werner Vieli 1960
