Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

East Ridge Gletscherhorn (GL) 2804 m

  • Difficulty
    AD, 4a
  • Ascent
    4–5 h, 800 m
  • Descent
    1:45–2:30 h, 800 m

Pleasant and enjoyable climbing on nice limestone. The highest point, P. 2805, is the predominantly scree-covered hill that tops the Vorab north ridge

Route description

Martinsmadhütte - Schwarzwändli

From Martinsmadhütte (2004 m) follow the blue-white marked footpath up through a large cliff band (the Schwarzwändli) to the hollow below the Vorabgletscher. The Schwarzwändli is secured with chains.

Schwarzwändli - start of the East Ridge

From the top of the Schwarzwändli, head west over scree and moraines to the east ridge, where its light-coloured limestone sticks out above the dark surrounding rock strata.

Start of the east ridge - P. 2717

Overcome two rocky peaks and arrive at P. 2458. Now follow the sharp 'cutting edge', first down, then up over several rock spikes, and thus reach the foot of the steep summit structure. Dodge to the right of the ridge through a set of chimneys and up a few rock steps (pitons) onto a horizontal ridge below a distinctive rock tower. Bypassed on the south side. Follow a crack to reach the main ridge again. Continue over scree to the foot of the next tower. Bypass on the north side, to find a another scree field leading to the foot of the summit rocks. The last steep section is tackled by climbing a vertical step into a chimney and ascending the steep open corner above to reach the ridge around P. 2717.

P. 2717 - Gletscherhorn

From P. 2717 over a couple of east steps to the summit.

Descent

For the descent, reverse the flat ridge back to the last step and turn south. Follow the eastern edge of the Vorab glacier until you reach the blue-white mark of the route "Martinsmad-Piz Grisch". Follow this marked path back round to the north, then east, past P. 2604, towards Schwarzwändli and the Martinsmadhütte.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Difficulty

Some bolts. Helpful slings.

History

SAC-Yearbook 1941, S. 424

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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