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- Difficulty
- 4b (3b)
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- Height Difference
- 2–3 h, 240 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- S / Limestone
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- Altitude start
- 1720 m
Scenic unsurpassable ridge climbing over four towers, which line up between the Mattalp and the Rosegg. Probably the most popular climbing route on the Pilatus, this is an absolute must for Lucerne based mountaineers, and is also highly recommended to 'outlanders'. The route begins above the Mattalpplatte with an initial small ridge section and becomes continuously more difficult until you reach the 4th tower, which is overcome with almost vertical climbing. After each tower, a grassy bridge makes for an excellent picnic spot.
Route description
Galtigengrat
An intial easy ridge leads over the first tower and into a grassy slope. Cross this leftwards to the start of the following tower. From the top of this 2nd tower descend a few metres and traverse onto the 3rd tower. Pass the overhang on its left. From the top of the 3rd tower (up till now max grade III) descend slightly leftwards to the start of the 4th and final tower - take the arete direct (ca. 4b) or follow a slightly overhanging corner to its right (roughly the same grade). It is possible to skip the 4th tower by ascending the grassy slope on it right-hand (eastern) side.
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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1x40m
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Quick draws
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6
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Stoppers
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Friends
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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The steep 4th tower (4b) can be left out, so the difficulty does not exceed grade III.
- Rock Type / Quality
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Good rock.
- Protection / Material
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Bolted. 2-3 slings and 6 quickdraws is sufficient.
- History
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Established by T. Jauch, 1991
