Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Traverse West Ridge - East Ridge Studerhorn 3631 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+
  • Ascent
    2–3 h, 610 m
  • Descent
    2–3 h, 670 m

As well as the steeper challenge of the once popular north face, the Studerhorn can be climbed easily from the south. Recommended here is the scenic west-east traverse of its ridge line. The summit, while being lower than its proud neighbour the Finsteraarhorn (4274 m) - the highest peak of the Berner Oberland, is also visible from Bern, and was named in honour of the geologist Bernhard Studer (1794–1887).

Route description

Oberaarjochhütte to the Obers Studerjoch

From the hut head down to the Oberaarjoch and then westwards, later northwest over the gentle slopes of the Studer Glacier (crevasses) and up to the Obers Studerjoch (3398 m); 1½ hours from the hut.

Obers Studerjoch to the Studerhorn (3643 m), and descent to the Oberaarjochhütte.

From the Obers Studerjoch (col) follow the gradual but exposed firn ridge to the summit. In descent, take the moderately steep snow flank, initially south-east, then more easterly towards the Unders Studerjoch (lower col) at 3356 m. From here, two possibilities are offered: a) Ca. 300 m east of the Unders Studerjoch (3456 m) descend southwards through a steep channel onto the Studer Glacier (easy with firm snow, otherwise tricky). b) Continue along the firn ridge to climb Altmann (the Old Man!) at 3462 m. Descend to the east once more along the narrow ridge to the low point between Altmann and the Oberaarhorn. From there drop down a steep snow slope southwards to gain the Studer Glacier (can also be difficult when the snow is gone). Note: It is worth assessing the current situation in the morning while crossing the Studer glacier to help make a right choice. Once on the Studer Glacier coast downhill and then climb the short rise to regain the Oberaarjoch and the hut.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Waypoints

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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