Ascent on the south face, descent on the west face | Mountain hiking

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- Ascent on the south face, descent on the west face
Ascent on the south face, descent on the west face

Ascent on the south face, descent on the west face (Normal route) Campanitt / Pizzo Columbe 2545 m

Difficulty

T5
Ascent

2:30 h, 670 m
Descent

2:15 h, 740 m

Surprisingly stable, surprisingly easy

Campanitt (small clock towers) they are called by the inhabitants of Valle di Blenio, Pizzo Columbe (dove horn) in Leventina: the bizarre pinnacles made of blinding white rock. By the way: this is the ideal tour for mixed groups. Close to Piano Grande the group separates: the slow hikers continue their stroll, while the ambitious climbers hike across the mountain. At Lago dei Campanitt they meet again. The scenery: beautiful high plains, lush pastures, countless lakes. The rock: surprisingly stable. The ascent: surprisingly easy – for both groups.

On the descent on the west face you pass by a characteristic rock tower called «cane» (dog). (09/2016) © Marco Volken

Campanitt (or Pizzo Columbe) from the south. (09/2013) © Marco Volken

Route description

Capanna Cadagno – Passo del Sole

From Capanna Cadagno (1987 m) follow the marked trail, for the first 40 minutes on a dirt road, to Alpe Carorescio. In an arc, which offers a splendid view to the alluvial plain Piano Grande, ascend to the popular Passo del Sole (2376 m).

Passo del Sole – Campanitt

From Passo del Sole descend briefly eastward on the marked hiking trail to about 2300 m, where you leave the trail to ascend north-westward to a large grassy gully (the most distinct one in the south face). Keeping to the left, hike up through the steep, but well tiered gully, bypassing to the left the two isolated rocky triangles. Through gullies and over small steps you reach the foot of a distinct yellowish wall. Scramble to the left over the wall (grass and rock) to reach a breach in the summit ridge. The highest point of Pizzo Columbe (2545 m), crowned by a little tin flag, is slightly to the right of this breach. It can be climbed from the east through a rock crevice (2 metres grade II, not exposed).

Campanitt – Passo delle Columbe

The descent from the summit is through the easier and less steep west face. From the foot of the summit pinnacle descend a few metres on the shady side of the south-west ridge, scramble to the right into a scree depression and traverse it. As soon as you can, turn left (faint path), traverse at about 2470 m around the next rocky pillar even further left. Now on schrofen and grass hike to the talus field at the foot of the west face. Traverse it northward at about 2420 m, overcome a rocky escarpment at 2390 m (faint path) or 20 m lower (trail), and continue to Lago dei Campanitt at Passo delle Columbe (2381 m).

Passo delle Columbe – Lukmanier

Follow the hiking trail down to Piano dei Canali. Leave the trail where it crosses a creek at about 2090 m to traverse, gently ascending, two little valleys to the lake plateau between P. 2218 und P. 2070. Those who want to admire all the lakes, which is recommended, aim at the highest of the lakes at 2130 m and descend step by step to all the others. From the lowest lake at ca. 2090 m go north-westward (caution, slabs) into a little valley and descend to Foppe di Pertusio, where the young tributary of the Brenno river disappears in a crack. Past numerous ponds and dolines you finally reach the official trail below P. 1970. Follow the trail via Alpe Croce to Passo del Lucomagno (1917 m).

Additional information

Departure point

Capanna Cadagno (1987 m)

End point

Lukmanier top of the pass (1916 m)

Bus service only during the summer months.

Get there Google Maps

Lukmanier Passhöhe

Difficulty / Material: On the ascent on the south face the grassy slope offers good steps, but it is steep; in addition schrofen and rocks. The grade is mostly T4, a few passages T5. The summit pinnacle is a juicy, but short and slightly exposed grade II passage. However, even without climbing these two metres you will have the summit feeling. The descent on scree and grass (T4) is easier. Between Piano dei Canali and Foppe di Pertusio it is T3 (pathless, hard to find the trail).

Waypoints

Passo del Sole (2375 m)

Popular passage from Valle Santa Maria (Lukmanier) into Val Piora (Capanna Cadagno, Ritom). It is often combined with Passo delle Columbe to make it a round-trip.

Passo delle Columbe (2380 m)

Popular passage from Valle Santa Maria (Lukmanier) into Val Piora (Capanna Cadagno, Ritom). It is often combined with Passo del Sole to make it a round-trip.