From the Rhonegletscher via the South Flank | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Rhonegletscher via the South Flank (Normal route) Galenstock 3586 m

  • Difficulty
    PD
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 1420 m
  • Descent
    3–4 h, 1420 m

From as far down as the village of Goms you can see the striking, snow-covered southern flank of the Galenstock. This route provides the easiest climb to the summit. To get to it however, you must first negotiate the wide expanse of the lower Rhone glacier. After leaving the glacier, the route leads up through numerous rock steps and debris fields to the Galensattel. Here begins the most scenic section of the tour; especially impressive is the summit area with its large cornice, which compensates for the approach march. In this area, make sure that the path you track, or follow, runs at a suitably safe distance from the edge!

Route description

Belvédère Hotel - Rhonegletscher (Ice grotto)
From the Hotel Belvédère (2271 m) bypass the souvenir shop on the right (east) and descend over the footbridge to the ice grotto. Here you can mount crampons and step easily onto the Rhone glacier.
Rhonegletscher - Galenstock
Pass the covering sheets of the ice grotto on the left and continue over the Rhone glacier, which you follow to an altitude of 2520 m. Here you leave the glacier on its right (eastern) side. Now climb steadily eastward towards the Galensattel (3113 m) before following the southwestern flank to the steeper summit cap. Carefully and at a respectable distance, follow the snow ridge (heavily corniced!!!) to the summit. For descent follow the route of ascent.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Belvedere Furka (2269 m)

Bus service only in the summer half year.

History

E. Desor, D. Dollfuss-Ausset and D. Dollfuss with H. Währen, M. Bannholzer, D. Brigger and H. Jaun, 18. August 1845

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