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Hangendgletscherhorn
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- Über den Chammligrat
via the South East Ridge

via the South East Ridge (Normal route) Hangendgletscherhorn 3291 m

Difficulty

PD, 2a
Ascent

3:15–4 h, 1090 m

The Hangendgletscherhorn (hanging-glacier-peak) is the local mountain of the Gaulihütte and is visited quite frequently. Although at 3300m it is not one of the highest peaks in the area, the Hangendgletscherhorn is a rewarding lookout piont. Particularly impressive is the view down the north side into Urbachtal. In addition to the normal route described here, the route over the Chammligrat offers a slightly harder tour (WS+), but its length should not be underestimated.

Typical terrain below the Chipfenstock (picture from the descent). (07/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

Ascent to the Hangendglescherhorn with much snow. (06/2016) © Fabian Duss

In the ascent to Hangendglescherhorn near P. 2724 with little snow. (07/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

In these conditions, the steep glacier slope is in danger of falling rocks and has to be climbed on the right side of the rocks. (07/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

The same passage in good firn conditions. (06/2016) © Fabian Duss

View from the Chammligrat into the steep glacier slope in good firn conditions at the beginning of July 2018; in this case one climbs comfortably up the firn field. (07/2018) © Dimitri Enzler

The same perspective from the Chammligrat into the steep glacier slope at the end of July 2022; in this case, there is a danger of falling rocks and one keeps to the right of the photo as much as possible. (07/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

On the summit ridge, pre-summit to the right. (06/2016) © Fabian Duss

The last metres along the summit ridge to the main summit. (07/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

Hangendgletscherhorn, the normal route comes in from the left. (06/2016) © Fabian Duss

Route description

Gaulihütte - P. 2724

From the Gaulihütte (2205 m) follow the path that leads northwest through the slope to the Chipfeseeli (about 2450 m, no name on the map - signpost at the hut and numerous cairns). From the southernmost lake continue on round granite humps and slate slabs up and right of the Chipfestock over to P. 2724 (faint tacks, cairns).

P. 2724 to the snow saddle ca. 3170 m

From P. 2724 head in a westerly direction on the glacier (crevasses) and over this to the steep final slope, which leads up to the Chammligrat. In dryer conditions however you must rise toward the snow saddle at approx. 3170 m (delicate with blank ice). Keep directly as far to the right (north) as possible. Now head north over firn fields or gneiss slabs and scree up towards the pre-peak. This is bypassed to the right (north). Continue over the connecting ridge to the main summit (partly exposed, passages II).

Snow saddle ca. 3170m - Hangendgletscherhorn

From the snow saddle head in a northerly direction over gneiss slabs and scree up to a ridge tower. Bypass this to the right (east), and continue over the connecting ridge to the highest point (grade II).

Descent

Down the ascent route.

Additional information

Departure point

Gaulihütte SAC (2205 m)

Difficulty: The firn slopes southeast below the summit often show bare ice and danger of falling rocks in late summer, usually from August onwards, and the Bergschrund can also make this relatively easy and safe tour more challenging. In this case, keep as far to the right (north) as possible on the glacier slabs and scree in the sense of the ascent.

History: Christoph Aebi and Rudolf Gerwer with Peter Michel and Peter Inäbnit, 15. August 1863.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.