Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

via the South East Ridge (Normal route) Hangendgletscherhorn 3291 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    3:15–4 h, 1090 m

The Hangendgletscherhorn (hanging-glacier-peak) is the local mountain of the Gaulihütte and is visited quite frequently. Although at 3300m it is not one of the highest peaks in the area, the Hangendgletscherhorn is a rewarding lookout piont. Particularly impressive is the view down the north side into Urbachtal. In addition to the normal route described here, the route over the Chammligrat offers a slightly harder tour (WS+), but its length should not be underestimated.

Route description

Gaulihütte - P. 2724

From the Gaulihütte (2205 m) follow the path that leads northwest through the slope to the Chipfeseeli (about 2450 m, no name on the map - signpost at the hut and numerous cairns). From the southernmost lake continue on round granite humps and slate slabs up and right of the Chipfestock over to P. 2724 (faint tacks, cairns).

P. 2724 to the snow saddle ca. 3170 m

From P. 2724 head in a westerly direction on the glacier (crevasses) and over this to the steep final slope, which leads up to the Chammligrat. With a good amount of snow, you can climb more left to a small saddle north of P. 3109. In dryer conditions however you must rise directly toward the snow saddle at approx. 3170 m (delicate with blank ice).

Snow saddle ca. 3170m - Hangendgletscherhorn

From the snow saddle head in a northerly direction over gneiss slabs and scree up to a ridge tower. Bypass this to the right (east), and continue over the connecting ridge to the highest point (grade II).

Descent

Down the ascent route.

Additional information

Departure point
Difficulty

The firn slopes southeast below the summit often show bare ice in late summer, and the Bergschrund can also make this relatively easy and safe tour more challenging.

History

Christoph Aebi and Rudolf Gerwer with Peter Michel and Peter Inäbnit, 15. August 1863.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

Our recommendations

Die Hütten des Schweizer Alpen-Club

Hütten

Die Hütten des Schweizer Alpen-Club

Price CHF 68.00
Member price CHF 54.00
Walliser Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Walliser Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Gipfelziele Berner Oberland

Berg- und Alpinwandern

Gipfelziele Berner Oberland

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Tourenportal Abonnemente

Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Price CHF 42.00
Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Hütten

Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
SAC-Seidenschlafsack

Ausrüstung

SAC-Seidenschlafsack

Price CHF 75.00
Member price CHF 67.00
SAC-Taschenmesser

Ausrüstung

SAC-Taschenmesser

Price CHF 42.00
Member price CHF 38.00
feedback