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via the South East Ridge (Normal route) Hangendgletscherhorn 3291 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2a
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- Ascent
- 3:15–4 h, 1090 m
The Hangendgletscherhorn (hanging-glacier-peak) is the local mountain of the Gaulihütte and is visited quite frequently. Although at 3300m it is not one of the highest peaks in the area, the Hangendgletscherhorn is a rewarding lookout piont. Particularly impressive is the view down the north side into Urbachtal. In addition to the normal route described here, the route over the Chammligrat offers a slightly harder tour (WS+), but its length should not be underestimated.
Route description
From the Gaulihütte (2205 m) follow the path that leads northwest through the slope to the Chipfeseeli (about 2450 m, no name on the map - signpost at the hut and numerous cairns). From the southernmost lake continue on round granite humps and slate slabs up and right of the Chipfestock over to P. 2724 (faint tacks, cairns).
From P. 2724 head in a westerly direction on the glacier (crevasses) and over this to the steep final slope, which leads up to the Chammligrat. With a good amount of snow, you can climb more left to a small saddle north of P. 3109. In dryer conditions however you must rise directly toward the snow saddle at approx. 3170 m (delicate with blank ice).
From the snow saddle head in a northerly direction over gneiss slabs and scree up to a ridge tower. Bypass this to the right (east), and continue over the connecting ridge to the highest point (grade II).
Down the ascent route.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Difficulty
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The firn slopes southeast below the summit often show bare ice in late summer, and the Bergschrund can also make this relatively easy and safe tour more challenging.
- History
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Christoph Aebi and Rudolf Gerwer with Peter Michel and Peter Inäbnit, 15. August 1863.
