Mittaghorn Via Ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Mittaghorn Via Ferrata Mittaghorn (Saas-Fee, VS) 3142 m

  • Difficulty
    K3
  • Ascent
    1:45 h, 460 m
  • Mountain Experience
    2 / 4
  • Power
    2 / 4
  • Endurance
    2 / 4
  • Psyche
    2 / 4

There are many 'Mittaghorns' in Switzerland; many are positioned due south of a mountain town and therefore point to the sun at midday. Such is the case for Saas Fees's Mittaghorn, so beautifully positioned at the centre of the innermost Saas Valley, which guarantees a view from all sides, and - who's surprised? - from every window. The fact that the "Midday-horn" now also has a via ferrata, makes it a real attraction for mountain goers, even beginner ferrata lovers. A couple of beautifully designed passages will test beginners' agility and head for heights, without ravaging them. In summer, during the descent, flower lovers are also advised to look out for small blue cushions between the rocks: the rare forget-me-nots, or king-of-the-alps (Eritrichium nanum) which naturally grow here.

Route description

Approach
Mittaghorn via ferrata
Short passages secured with steel cables alternate with longer walking sections. Only after a fat cairn the terrain becomes steeper, and you go from the odd secured section to full via ferrata. A short vertical step (iron steps) proves to be the first aptitude test for beginners; A little further on is a very exposed passage high above the Karboden (iron bar). Here your immunity to vertigo is tested. After a easier ridge section follows a steep slab. The finale involves some airy gymnastics utilising 21 iron rungs and a good dozen pins - with a view of the Fee Glacier and its four-thousander surrounds. The summit of Mittaghorn (3,143 m, 2¾ hours) offers a 360-degree panorama of the mountains and glaciers of the Saas Valley; and beyond the Rhone Valley, the shapely rock pyramid of the Bietschhorn. A further eye catcher to the south is the massive Mattmark reservoir.
Descent

Additional information

Character

K3. Ideal for beginners who have surefootedness and some mountain experience. Four short sections require concentration, otherwise its relatively straightforward. Well secured; Descend via the airy east flank on a surprisingly comfortable path. Only for good conditions (stable weather forecast, no old snow). Combination ticket Morenia / Plattjen available at the Felskinn cable car.

Time

Total time: 5¾ hrs.

Approach: 1 hour,

Via ferrata: 1¾ hours,

Mittaghorn - Plattjen - Saas-Fee: 3 hours.

Signalisation

white-blue-white marked

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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