From the Cabane des Dix via the WNW-Ridge and the SW-Ridge | Alpinism

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From the Cabane des Dix via the WNW-Ridge and the SW-Ridge (Normal route) Mont Blanc de Cheilon 3870 m

Difficulty

PD, 2a
Ascent

4:30–5 h, 942 m

The lower part of the Glaciers de Cheilon is covered with scree today. The development of a new approach variation avoids the loss of altitude caused by massive glacier retreat. From the hut you climb into the Col de Cheilon, then over the WNW and the SW ridge to the summit. The route is also used for descent from other tours.

Team in the firn part of the WNW ridge. © Fabian Lippuner

The south-west ridge. © Annina Reber Bergführerin

Mont Blanc de Cheillon with the upper part of the route, facing the SW ridge. Taken from La Ruinette. © Fabian Lippuner

Route description

Cabane des Dix - Glacier de Cheilon

From the Cabane des Dix (2928 m), take a path on a moraine ridge southwest to P. 2975. There turn south onto the Glacier de Cheilon at about 3050 m.

Glacier de Cheilon - Mont Blanc de Cheilon

Continue southwards, climbing the relatively compact glacier up to Col de Cheilon (3236 m), 1½ hours. From here follow up the gentle WNW ridge, which merges into a firn field at around 3500 m. (Variant: In good conditions, from the col, you can also climb the firns of the west flank direct). Continue up the firn slope until you reach the saddle at 3779 m. Now take SW ridge, which becomes rocky at the end, up to the summit (3870 m), 3 hrs.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.