From the Cabane des Dix via the WNW-Ridge and the SW-Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Cabane des Dix via the WNW-Ridge and the SW-Ridge (Normal route) Mont Blanc de Cheilon 3870 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    4:30–5 h, 942 m

The lower part of the Glaciers de Cheilon is covered with scree today. The development of a new approach variation avoids the loss of altitude caused by massive glacier retreat. From the hut you climb into the Col de Cheilon, then over the WNW and the SW ridge to the summit. The route is also used for descent from other tours.

Route description

Cabane des Dix - Glacier de Cheilon
From the Cabane des Dix (2928 m), take a path on a moraine ridge southwest to P. 2975. There turn south onto the Glacier de Cheilon at about 3050 m.
Glacier de Cheilon - Mont Blanc de Cheilon
Continue southwards, climbing up to Col de Cheilon (3236 m), 1½ hours. From here follow up the gentle WNW ridge, which merges into a firn field at around 3500 m. (Variant: In good conditions, from the col, you can also climb the firns of the west flank direct). Continue up the firn slope until you reach the saddle at 3779 m. Now take SW ridge, which becomes rocky at the end, up to the summit (3870 m), 3 hrs.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

J.J. Weilenmann with Justin Fellay, 11. September 1865.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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