Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Cabane des Dix via the WNW-Ridge and the SW-Ridge (Normal route) Mont Blanc de Cheilon 3870 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    4:30–5 h, 942 m

The lower part of the Glaciers de Cheilon is covered with scree today. The development of a new approach variation avoids the loss of altitude caused by massive glacier retreat. From the hut you climb into the Col de Cheilon, then over the WNW and the SW ridge to the summit. The route is also used for descent from other tours.

Route description

Cabane des Dix - Glacier de Cheilon

From the Cabane des Dix (2928 m), take a path on a moraine ridge southwest to P. 2975. There turn south onto the Glacier de Cheilon at about 3000 m.

Glacier de Cheilon - Mont Blanc de Cheilon

Continue southwards, climbing the relatively compact glacier up to Col de Cheilon (3236 m), 1½ hours. From here follow up the gentle WNW ridge, which merges into a firn field at around 3500 m. (Variant: In good conditions, from the col, you can also climb the firns of the west flank direct). Continue up the firn slope until you reach the saddle at 3779 m. Now take SW ridge, which becomes rocky at the end, up to the summit (3870 m), 3 hrs.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

J.J. Weilenmann with Justin Fellay, 11. September 1865.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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