Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Oberaarjochhütte (Normal route) Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m

  • Difficulty
    PD
  • Ascent
    3–3:30 h, 440 m
  • Descent
    3:30–4:30 h, 440 m

The Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m is not often climbed in summer. This is a shame, as the Scheuchzerhorn has everything a light mountaineering trip can offer: the interesting approach to the Oberaarjochhütte (the starting point for this tour), a not so strenuous or difficult ascent, a perfect view and a fast descent, different to the approach which makes it a rewarding and enjoyable circular tour. In addition there's a high chance that you'll have the summit to yourselves. The history of the Scheuchzerhorn is also intriguing. The summit was named in honor of the naturalist and alpine explorer Johann Jakob Scheuchzer (1672-1733). The naming ceremony took place in 1840, when the local mountain guides were unable to give information on the names of some of the peaks in the Unteraar region to a group of glacier researchers, who came mainly from Neuchâtel. The scientists from Neuchâtel named the summits according to famous Swiss naturalists: Scheuchzerhorn, Grunerhorn, Altmann, Studerhorn, Escherhorn, Hugihorn. The leader of the expedition, Louis Agassiz was also immortalised with the Agassizhorn named in his honour.

Route description

Oberaarjochhütte 3256 m - Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m

From Oberaarjochütte (3256 m) drop down to the Oberaarjoch. Head left (northeastward), at first almost horizontally and only slightly below the Oberaarhorn's east flank, over the scarred glacier. Then trend diagonally down to the right and around the foot of the rock spur descending from P. 3500m. Climbing slightly into the following hollow, eventually contour round to the foot of the Scheuchzerhorn's South East Spur. From there, head north over the glacier to the right of the spur until it can be easily attained (around 3380 m) via a lower rocky outcrop. Follow the snow or screes atop the spur northwestward to the brittle summit rocks and through these until the highest point is reached.

Direct descent to the Oberaargletscher

From the summit descend the same route until the glacier is reached. Then cross over towards the Scheuchzerjoch. Shortly before the Scheuchzerjoch turn down slope (southwest direction) to the northeast of Tieralpi to point 2580 m and thence down onto the Oberaargletscher. Cross the lower part of the glacier to the north shore of the Oberaarsee and follow the nice path to recross the damn. 3½ - 4½ hrs.

Additional information

Departure point
End point

Berghaus Oberaar (2337 m)

Das Berghaus Oberaar hat keine ÖV-Anbindung und ist auf einer Fahrstrasse erreichbar (wechselseitiger Einbahnbetrieb). Zu Fuss erreicht man es von der Postautohaltestelle auf dem Grimselpass über das lokale Bergwegnetz via Triebtenseewli in ca. 1½ Std. Infos zur Strassenöffnung: www.grimselwelt.ch/grimselhotels/oberaar

Waypoints
History

First ascent made by E. J. Häberlin with Andreas and Johann from Weissenfluh on 30th July 1872

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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