From the Oberaarjochhütte (Normal route) Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m
- 3–3:30 h, 440 m
- 3:30–4:30 h, 440 m
The Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m is not often climbed in summer. This is a shame, as the Scheuchzerhorn has everything a light mountaineering trip can offer: the interesting approach to the Oberaarjochhütte (the starting point for this tour), a not so strenuous or difficult ascent, a perfect view and a fast descent, different to the approach which makes it a rewarding and enjoyable circular tour. In addition there's a high chance that you'll have the summit to yourselves. The history of the Scheuchzerhorn is also intriguing. The summit was named in honor of the naturalist and alpine explorer Johann Jakob Scheuchzer (1672-1733). The naming ceremony took place in 1840, when the local mountain guides were unable to give information on the names of some of the peaks in the Unteraar region to a group of glacier researchers, who came mainly from Neuchâtel. The scientists from Neuchâtel named the summits according to famous Swiss naturalists: Scheuchzerhorn, Grunerhorn, Altmann, Studerhorn, Escherhorn, Hugihorn. The leader of the expedition, Louis Agassiz was also immortalised with the Agassizhorn named in his honour.
From Oberaarjochütte (3256 m) drop down to the Oberaarjoch. Head left (northeastward), at first almost horizontally and only slightly below the Oberaarhorn's east flank, over the scarred glacier. Then trend diagonally down to the right and around the foot of the rock spur descending from P. 3500m. Climbing slightly into the following hollow, eventually contour round to the foot of the Scheuchzerhorn's South East Spur. From there, head north over the glacier to the right of the spur until it can be easily attained (around 3380 m) via a lower rocky outcrop. Follow the snow or screes atop the spur northwestward to the brittle summit rocks and through these until the highest point is reached.
From the summit descend the same route until the glacier is reached. Then cross over towards the Scheuchzerjoch. Shortly before the Scheuchzerjoch turn down slope (southwest direction) to the northeast of Tieralpi to point 2580 m and thence down onto the Oberaargletscher. Cross the lower part of the glacier to the north shore of the Oberaarsee and follow the nice path to recross the damn. 3½ - 4½ hrs.
- Departure point
- End point
Berghaus Oberaar (2337 m)
Das Berghaus Oberaar hat keine ÖV-Anbindung und ist auf einer Fahrstrasse erreichbar (wechselseitiger Einbahnbetrieb). Zu Fuss erreicht man es von der Postautohaltestelle auf dem Grimselpass über das lokale Bergwegnetz via Triebtenseewli in ca. 1½ Std. Infos zur Strassenöffnung: www.grimselwelt.ch/grimselhotels/oberaar
First ascent made by E. J. Häberlin with Andreas and Johann from Weissenfluh on 30th July 1872