From the Oberaarjochhütte | Alpinism

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- From the Oberaarjochhütte
From the Oberaarjochhütte

From the Oberaarjochhütte (Normal route) Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

3–3:30 h, 440 m
Descent

3:30–4:30 h, 440 m

The Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m is not often climbed in summer. This is a shame, as the Scheuchzerhorn has everything a light mountaineering trip can offer: the interesting approach to the Oberaarjochhütte (the starting point for this tour), a not so strenuous or difficult ascent, a perfect view and a fast descent, different to the approach which makes it a rewarding and enjoyable circular tour. In addition there's a high chance that you'll have the summit to yourselves. The history of the Scheuchzerhorn is also intriguing.

From the Oberaarjoch (left) to the Scheuchzerhorn (flat summit with snow to the right) to route crosses over the higher glacier to the foot of the South East Spur (hidden). © Bomio Marco

Route description

Oberaarjochhütte 3256 m - Scheuchzerhorn 3456 m

From Oberaarjochütte (3256 m) drop down to the Oberaarjoch. Head left (northeastward), at first almost horizontally and only slightly below the Oberaarhorn's east flank, over the scarred glacier. Then trend diagonally down to the right and around the foot of the rock spur descending from P. 3500m. Climbing slightly into the following hollow, eventually contour round to the foot of the Scheuchzerhorn's South East Spur. From there, head north over the glacier to the right of the spur until it can be easily attained (around 3380 m) via a lower rocky outcrop. Follow the snow or screes atop the spur northwestward to the brittle summit rocks and through these until the highest point is reached.

Direct descent to the Oberaargletscher

From the summit descend the same route until the glacier is reached. Then cross over towards the Scheuchzerjoch. Shortly before the Scheuchzerjoch turn down slope (southwest direction) to the northeast of Tieralpi to point 2580 m and thence down onto the Oberaargletscher. Cross the lower part of the glacier to the north shore of the Oberaarsee and follow the nice path to recross the damn. 3½ - 4½ hrs.

Additional information

Departure point

Oberaarjochhütte SAC (3258 m)

End point

Berghaus Oberaar (2337 m)

Das Berghaus Oberaar hat keine ÖV-Anbindung und ist auf einer Fahrstrasse erreichbar (wechselseitiger Einbahnbetrieb). Zu Fuss erreicht man es von der Postautohaltestelle auf dem Grimselpass über das lokale Bergwegnetz via Triebtenseewli in ca. 1½ Std. Infos zur Strassenöffnung: www.grimselwelt.ch/grimselhotels/oberaar

Get there Google Maps

Grimsel Passhöhe

Difficulty: The tour is only recommended if the long traverse towards Scheuchzerjoch is snow-covered, otherwise it is tiring. The firn status of the National Map 1:25,000 (as of summer 2023) is somewhat misleading: without snow, a large part of the traverse is no longer on firn, but on scree and glacial polished slabs.

Waypoints

Oberaarjoch (3206 m)

History: First ascent made by E. J. Häberlin with Andreas and Johann from Weissenfluh on 30th July 1872

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.