South Ridge from Tiefengletscher | Alpinism

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South Ridge from Tiefengletscher

South Ridge from Tiefengletscher (Normal route) Tiefenstock 3515 m

Difficulty

PD, 2a
Ascent

4:30–5 h, 1430 m
Descent

3:30–4 h, 1430 m

The Tiefenstock stands a little in the shade of its bigger brother, the Galenstock. Still it offers an interesting and varied high-altitude tour, which includes impressive views down to the 'Damma' region and Göscheneralp. In recent years, due to shrinking of the glacier, the ascent from the glacier up to the Nördlichen Tiefensattel has become more and more demanding. Since 2014, fixed ropes and iron bars have made it easier to overcome this vertical section. NOTE: It is advisable to take along a via ferrata set for this. After the iron bars and the fixed rope have finished, a little more climbing brings you finally to the narrow gap of the Nördlichen Tiefensattel. From here to the summit the technicalities are more subdued.

The fast diminishing Tiefen glacier and the route to the Tiefenstock (09/2017) © Müller Bruno

Route description

Direct approach from Teifenbach

If you come directly from Tiefenbach (or the higher parking at Tätsch) a broad trail to the Albert Heim Hut is followed to the junction at P. 2412. Here you choose the path leading off to the left (signposted as "Leicht Hüttenweg") and reach the metal bridge over the Tiefenbach. From the bridge (don't cross it) follow faint tracks in a northwest direction. Climbing over scree, you will gain the path coming from the Albert Heim hut.

Albert-Heim-Hütte - P. 2765

From the Albert Heim Hut follow initially the path signposted to Realp but then continue NW on the path, heading towards the Gletschhorn. Using this route, you reach the basin to the south of the Gletschhorn and at P. 2765 the edge of the Tiefengletscher.

Across the Tiefengletscher to the start of the Via Ferrata

Trace an arc around the base of the Gletschhorn to the west and start up the little crevassed Tiefengletscher. Trending leftwards as you gain height you will reach the steep embankment below the Northern Tiefensattel (3331 m). Keep a look out for the cables and iron bars which are visible from afar (hopefully glinting in the morning sun).

Klettersteig to the Nördlichen Tiefensattel

Iron rungs and fixed cables help in overcoming the initial vertical step (via ferrata kit!). From the end of the fixed ropes climb up through brittle but nicely stepped rock ledges to the narrow gap of the northern saddle (3330 m).